Curriculum
- 6 Sections
- 46 Lessons
- Lifetime
Expand all sectionsCollapse all sections
- Introduction4
- Intro to cotton module15
- 2.1Introduction
- 2.2Making mordants
- 2.3Choosing and gathering leaves
- 2.4Preparing leaves
- 2.5Choosing plant-based fabric and clothing
- 2.6Scouring plant-based fabric and clothing
- 2.7Mordanting cotton with iron
- 2.8Doing test prints
- 2.9Basic rolling and bundling technique: tank top
- 2.10Cooking eco-print bundles
- 2.11Rolling a piece of fabric
- 2.12Rolling garments with sleeves
- 2.13Combining alum and iron mordants
- 2.14Aftercare: washing, drying and wearing
- 2.15Eco-printing over failed or faded prints
- Advanced Cotton module4
- Soy Milk Binder module11
- 4.1Introduction
- 4.2Understanding the effect of soy milk binders
- 4.3Preparing cotton with a soymilk binder
- 4.4A shibori and rust rolled bundle
- 4.5Shibori and rust variation
- 4.6A simple rolled bundle with iron dipped leaves
- 4.7Making iron blankets and dye blankets
- 4.8Using the soy binder and blankets together
- 4.9Dye blankets on clothing
- 4.10Eco-printing on nylon
- 4.11More examples of eco-printing on nylon
- Wool and shibori module10
- Conclusion2
Introduction
Welcome to the final module of Living Colour. Here we will take a step sideways, to explore the delights of eco-printing on wool and how to combine this with shibori dyeing techniques.
Dear Louise.
Since wool can not stand in water with soda, I will ask you, if there is another way, that I can prepare a new wool sweater, and make it ready for print.
Maybe I should just wash it before, and then try.
Best regards Anne
Hi Anne, yes often I find that it is sufficient to give wool a gentle wash with a wool detergent. Otherwise, here are some scouring instructions for wool and silk: http://maiwahandprints.blogspot.com/2010/12/natural-dyes-scouring.html