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Introduction
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Intro to cotton module
- Introduction
- Making mordants
- Choosing and gathering leaves
- Preparing leaves
- Choosing plant-based fabric and clothing
- Scouring plant-based fabric and clothing
- Mordanting cotton with iron
- Doing test prints
- Basic rolling and bundling technique: tank top
- Cooking eco-print bundles
- Rolling a piece of fabric
- Rolling garments with sleeves
- Combining alum and iron mordants
- Aftercare: washing, drying and wearing
- Eco-printing over failed or faded prints
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Advanced Cotton module
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Soy Milk Binder module
- Introduction
- Understanding the effect of soy milk binders
- Preparing cotton with a soymilk binder
- A shibori and rust rolled bundle
- Shibori and rust variation
- A simple rolled bundle with iron dipped leaves
- Making iron blankets and dye blankets
- Using the soy binder and blankets together
- Dye blankets on clothing
- Eco-printing on nylon
- More examples of eco-printing on nylon
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Wool and shibori module
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Conclusion
This info was really helpful for troubleshooting! Thanks. I found I forgot to keep adding the dyestuff into the water but I suppose the more you do you with a specific dye…you eventually get to know the approximate quantity you need? Thanks for the tips Louise.
Yes, exactly. Each dye varies and so do individual preferences for colour and darkness. Wool is very receptive to natural dyes, but when doing dye baths for cotton we need to be more careful about creating a strong dye.
Louise, does high temperatures do not damaged some protein-based fabrics? i mean when you boil them
No, because they are immobilised through folding and tying them up, they can be cooked at high temperatures without it causing any felting or other damage.